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Our skin is the largest organ in our body. It is our outer covering,
and is responsible for many functions, including the protection of
our bodies from the outside world. However, it is not just a functional
layer. Our skin’s appearance is important in conveying a healthy
appearance, and is often a reflection of one’s health and age.
These are reasons why one should endeavour to improve the quality
of their skin. Some people’s skin may be problematic at times,
requiring specific treatments, whilst others have no problems, and
simply wish to improve the quality of their skin.
Analysis of skin is the first step in improving one’s skin.
There are various skin types, not all of which are problematic, but
each can be improved on by matching the correct treatment/skin care
to each skin type.
The first step is to determine if there is a medical condition that
may be causing problems with the skin. For example, redness of the
cheeks may be caused by Lupus, prednisolone use, or rosacea.
Secondly, a skin history needs to be determined. A person’s
current regime of skin care needs to be assessed to see if this is
causing any problems with their skin. Especially in Australia, a sun
exposure history needs to be assessed, and whether the person has
used sunscreen regularly. As an aside note, we recommend that sunscreen
is used on a daily basis, regardless of the amount of sun exposure
you receive.
Thirdly, your skin type needs to be assessed, as each skin type will
require a different type of treatment. Your skin type in conjunction
with any problems present will determine the best course of treatment.
Dry or oily
The dryness or oiliness needs to be assessed firstly. This can be
determined by how your skin feels after washing. Some drier skin types
may feel tight or flaky after washing, whereas some of the more oily
skin types may still feel shiny and oily after washing. Signs of oily
skin include; enlarged pores, the presence of acne, blackheads, shine.
Signs of dry skin include; flakiness, tightness, and cracks. Many
people with oily skin may not require moisturiser. Often people who
have oily skin in the T-zone (nose, chin, and in between brow) may
feel that they have drier skin around their cheeks. This is often
termed ‘combination skin’. If this is the case, moisturisers
may need to be avoided in these areas and used on the cheeks only.
Examination of the oiliness of skin is best done with a Wood’s
lamp. A Wood’s lamp emits a frequency of UV light. Different
skin conditions reflect different colours under this light. Excess
oil appears orange under this light. It can sometimes be difficult
to determine how oily or dry your skin the way it ‘feels’
may not be a clear indication of whether it is dry or oily. For example,
those with oily skin feel dry due to excessive dead skin (stratum
corneum) on the surface layer. In this case, moisturisers may be of
no use, as it is exacerbating the skin’s oiliness, and only
temporarily moisturising the layer of dead skin on the surface. In
cases like these, it may be more important to exfoliate the skin with
products such as alpha-hydroxy acids or retinols to remove the dead
skin, reduce oil production and make the skin feel more moist.
Treatment of truly dry skin, however, may require the use of moisturiser.
Moisturisers, however, do not actually change or improve skin, but
merely affect the way the skin feels temporarily. They can temporarily
compensate for the lack of moisture/oil secretion by the skin.
Treatment of oily skin usually involves cessation any existing moisturisers
they are using. Oily skin has a tendency to form acne, and the oilier
the skin, the more blockage and acne this tends to form. For more
information on the diagnosis and treatment of acne, click here.
Oily skins may also benefit from the use of toners, such as Purity
Balance from Cosmedix. This can help to remove excess oil and reduce
shine.. Topical retinoids (Retin-A, Stieva-A, Cosmedix Refine) can
help to reduce oil production in oily skins, as well as increase cell
turnover and reduce acne formation. As stated previously, at times,
oily skin can feel dry due to the excess of dead skin on the surface,
and a topical retinoid can help this.
Sensitive skin
Sensitive skin is a term that is difficult to define, but can this
type of skin can be characterised as skin that is easily irritated,
has the tendency to form redness, lumps.
Those who have sensitive skin often have difficulty in finding skin
care products that do not irritate their skin. Even sunscreens can
be irritating on those with sensitive skin. We recommend use of sunscreen
containing titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, such as those found in
Reflect and Serious Protection from Cosmedix. These active ingredients
tend to have a lower rate of irritation.
Sensitive skin can be an entity on its own, or be a part of another
skin condition like rosacea, atopic dermatitis, eczema or contact
dermatitis. Hallmarks of rosacea include sensitive skin and skin that
is red or easily flushed
Those with oily and sensitive skin, it is often difficult to reduce
oil production and/or acne without subsequently irritating skin. Gradual
introduction of active ingredients such as alpha hydroxy acids e.g.
glycolic acids, beta hydroxy acids e.g. salicylic acid, vitamin C,
or retinoids may be required. Other products such as the new range
from Cosmedix, Results Rx, contain active ingredient to help battle
oil and acne like azelaic acid and salicylic acid, and combine them
with anti-redness/anti-inflammatory agents such as willow herb.
There are other agents that can help reduce irritation and redness,
and these include both non-prescription actives such as aloe vera,
calendula, and lichocalone. Prescription variants include; metronidazole
(Rozex).
Part two coming soon ...
Dr. Gavin Chan
(MBBS)
The Victorian Cosmetic Institute
Level 6, 200 High St
Lower Templestowe 3107
(03)88500655
www.thevictoriancosmeticinstitute.com.au
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